![]() ![]() ![]() Load Limiters, Slings, and Carabiners Designed to reduce the peak impact force on a piece of protection, load-limiting slings, such as the Yates Screamer or Petzl Nitro, deserve a place on your rack. Traditional mixed climbing on "Mixed Master" (WI5, 5.8) in the Canadian Rockies. Ice pitons don't work well in ice, but are invaluable for driving into dirty cracks and frozen moss. For routes on granite, conglomerates, or chossy/broken rock, I reintroduce the stoppers to the mix. For limestone routes with lots of parallel cracks, I emphasize cams and pitons over stoppers since stoppers don't tend to place well in that type of crack. The rock type dictates the exact composition of the rack.
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